The Spartan 16 *****
Well, with a description like that how could one pass this up? For some strange reason I don't have a shot of the whole climb but it's impossible to ignore the huge ampitheatre as one walks past, I've been longing to get on it since first wandering around to the more mainstream Piddo spots - Can't say that I wasn't intimated from trying it - just reading the climb description is enough to think "maybe one day", let alone standing beneath the massive roof!
My favourite Danish climbing partner, Eric, was heading back home the next day so we had decided on piddo as I'd been talking it up a heap. Angela was in also. We warmed up on 'Think Kink' (17**), some bolted half arete/face with a fun move over a bulge... not bad fun if you can block out the tree that would catch any fall... From there we moved around to the No Mans Land Area and we were face to face with the imposing Spartan. Now, I had promised Eric a climb to remember but I was totally intimidated by this awe inspiring structure. Looking for an excuse I thought "nah, maybe it'll be a bit much for Eric" - I came up with a few other excuses and I suggested heading around further to have a go at some less... scary. Angela, sensing my conflicting desire & fear, made it simple. "let do it". That's all we needed, soon we were kitted up with more slings and novelty oversize cams than you could poke a stick at - the guide said "take big gear" and I knew it meant it! After a sugar hit of Eric's chocolate cake and a cunning plan to climb with 3 on the one rope, I led up the starting off-width. A few twists, thrutches and a half-pike later, I'd set a gear belay including the token manky carrot.
Now, Angela and I had traded nagging doubts over who would lead which pitch with me leading the first one just to break the impasse... and a sneaking hope she would step up for the roof traverse pitch! Being a fair bit shorter I had figured (correctly as it turns out) she'd cruise the spot where the roof lowers and jams the taller but after we spent a while staring at the roof I found myself slinging chockstones and knee-jambing my way to glory up the off-width whilst walking my #6 camalot up the crack. At the top I found a reasonable rest stance and clipped another manky carrot with a loooong runner and looked across at the traverse. Crap. After delaying 5 minutes to compose myself I stuck my toe out, feeling for the first (broken off) footer. It felt good so I leaned out and committed. Shuffling across I found the footer's quite sturdy and solid underclings mixed with bomber hand-jambs made gear placements easy with all hex's & cams looking bomber - this raised my spirits somewhat and I soon found myself at the crux (for those over 6'!), where the roof dips down, cramping me & my style in a horrible way. I fumbled with some gear but couldn't see it so I stuck my head up a scoop, promptly jamming my helmet. Perfect. Fortunately I could wiggle out but placing that cam was out of the question. I sucked it up, squished up more and pushed on. The roof opened up and I could 'rest' (sic) on two nice underclings... I took some time to gather myself and looked down at the belay 15m beneath my toes with our bags/cake cache another 15m below that! I blinked hard and didn't look down again. I was then approaching the exit 'squeeze', an easy move in a horrible position! Toes aching, forearms bursting, I lent back and threw my left foot up to waist level hoping to snag one of the numerous ripples, good friction meant it stuck and I groveled my way to the ledge letting out a yelp of relief!
Two carrots around the corner meant for an awesome belay position (again!) and I brought up Eric, tied in at the halfway point of the rope. With him being out of view I sat back in the sun taking in the view with the rope and soon enough he reports that he's heading out on the traverse! I grin to myself (a bit evil...) knowing what he's looking at but, for someone with barely 6 weeks climbing to his name, he cruises it - save some cursing when he reaches the helmet jam! When he pokes his head around the corner with a few moves insight I feel bad for grinning - he's thoroughly stuffed but pushes on, slumping onto the belay ledge - high fives exchanged, I can see the fear draining out, being replaced with ecstasy at a thrilling pitch! I smile, knowing the feeling. Angela then shamelessly walks up the slab beside the off-width and totally cruises the roof and soon we're happily relaxing on the ledge together.
The exit pitch is quite an oddity. 10m, grade 14. Yeah, right. A chossy scramble to a massive not-quite-a-chimney provides a mostly unprotected overhanging boulder move, just to make sure this climb has it all.
Wow, what a climb. We shuffled down to a late lunch and wandered back to the car, thrilled with another magic day in the bluies!
